- Pull string wire (2)
- Wing pushrod (2)
- Servo tray (1)
- Horizontal tail mount (1)
- Throwing blade reinforcing (2)
- Guide tubes (1)
- Tail spring wire stock (2)
- Wing pushrod reinforcement tube (2)
- Removable horizontal tail screws (2)
- Rear wing mount (1)
- Front wing mount (1)
- Front wing bolt (1)
- Rear wing bolt (1)
- Pull string crimps (4)
- Tail control horn (2)
- Wing control horn (2)
- Fuselage bulkhead (1)
- Throwing blade (1 or 2)
Equipment needed to complete the GO assembly:
- 1S LiPo battery pack, 600-1000 mah, either cylindrical, or flat and long
- Small full range receiver with end pins (Graupner GR-16L, etc)
- 4 servos, can use 4 of the same (KST X08, KST 245S, JR DS-385, Graupner DS-281), or use 2 smaller ones for the tails (JR DS-318, Graupner DS-261)
Supplies and equipment needed to assemble the GO:
- Model knife (X-acto #11, etc)
- Masking tape
- Thin CA
- Medium CA
- CA kicker / accelerator
- 30 minute epoxy
- Microballoons (optional)
- Small file (flat and round)
- Phillips screwdriver
1. Slip the front and rear wing mounts onto the boom from the back, and slide the front mount forward until the front edge is 26 mm from the front end of the boom. Bolt on the wing to the front mount, and slide the rear mount until it is in the correct location, and bolt the wing to the rear mount as well. Double check the front edge of the front wing mount is 26 mm away from the front end of the boom, then mark the mount locations on the boom.
2. Remove the wing and mounts, and file the marked area. The filing should only remove the epoxy, to allow a strong bond with the carbon, but once you start seeing gray dust, stop filing that area as you are hitting carbon.
3. Re-install the wing mounts, ensuring they are in the correct locations as specified in step one with the wing. Take the vertical tail and slip it into the slot at the rear end of the boom. Rotate the wing mount assembly (with the wing!) until the vertical is 90 degrees from the wing. No special tools are needed, simply look straight down the boom and use your eyes, they are more accurate then you think! Once the angle is set, recheck the measurements from the front edge of the wing mount to the front end of the boom. Remove the wing, then wick in thin CA between the wing mounts and the boom, be careful to not use too much each application.
4. Take the pod, and split the top of the rear by gently peeling apart. This should be done quite easily.
6. Now insert the bulkhead as shown below. You may need to lightly sand the bulkhead to give a good fit, and sand the pod in the contacted area to ensure a good bond when gluing in the bulkhead. Check to make sure the bulkhead is flush to the edge of the opening as pictured below. Wick in thin CA glue to bond the bulkhead to the pod.
Note: Make sure the two smaller holes are closer to the top of the pod.
7. Sand all contact points between the boom and pod, and clean thoroughly. Glue together with a mixture of 30 minute epoxy and microballoons, and using a small paperclip, clip the top edge of the rear of the pod together (the part we peeled apart earlier). For best results, bolt on the wing during curing to make sure alignment is correct of the boom with the pod.
8. Plan the location of your servo tray, making sure it is as far forward as possible, while still allowing the noseweight, battery, and receiver to fit in front of the tray with servos. Sand contact points and clean thoroughly, and bond with a mixture of 30 minute epoxy and microballoons.
9. Prepare your servos for installation. To save space, you can cut the tabs off of your servos with pliers and sand smooth with a file (or, in my case, a disc sander). Pictured are the KST 245S servos, but ideally you want something a little smaller for easier installation. Once prepared, clean the servo cases, screw on the control horns, and glue to the servo tray using a mixture of 30 minute epoxy and microballoons.
Optional: You can also use medium CA with kicker to glue the servos to save time, but it is critical the servos are well bonded to the tray to avoid it becoming loose!
1. Draw two lines the length of the wing control horn, 5 mm from the hinge, and 5 mm from the end of the flaperon.
2. Cut along the line with a knife, and use a thin file to increase the cut's thickness until the control horn fits inside. Make sure not to poke through the skin on the other side.
3. Sand the control horn where it will contact the wing, and clean thoroughly. Apply 30 minute epoxy into the slot, ensuring there is enough glue inside, then slide in the control horns. Make sure the control horns sit all the way into the slots. For best results, ensure both sides are either perpendicular to the wing surface, or, perpendicular to the working table surface.
Note: Make sure both sides are as symmetrical as possible.
4. Once the epoxy for the control horns has cured, you can start on the throwing blade. Locate the hardpoint (left wingtip). At the center of the hardpoint, draw a line that is parallel to the fuselage, that is the centerline for your throwing blade. Draw the profile with max length and width of the throwing blade, and slowly drill out the hole on the hardpoint. Test often by trying to fit the throwing blade into the slot, you want the fit to be as snug as possible. Once it fits nicely, sand the throwing blade where it will be bonded, and clean both the throwing blade and the hole in the wingtip. Fit the throwing blade into the hole, and once everything is aligned well, glue with superthin CA. Once it cures, add more superthin CA to make sure all the cracks and crevices are filled. When that is filled, make a fillet with medium CA, and let cure.
Note: The reason why CA is OK even though the wing is XPS foam (not CA-resistant) is because the hardpoint on which you are bonding the throwing blade acts as a barrier for the XPS foam.
1. Note: for visibility in these photos and instructions I used a colored tape (Kapton tape), for personal use, using a clear tape will result in a much cleaner effect. Lay the two parts of the horizontal stabilizer together, with a minimal gap between the pieces, and apply a piece of tape along the length of the hinge. After the first side is done, fold the tail in such a way that the tape is on the inside of the fold. Apply tape on the other side, and apply pressure to make sure the tape on both sides stick firmly to the surface and to each other (along the tiny gap). Trim excess tape. Do the same for the rudder.
2. Insert the rudder into the boom, using the widest part of the vertical stabilizer as the center. Mark the outline of the boom, you will need to cut the skin on the rudder in this area to give a proper bond between the boom and the balsa tails.
3. Slip the rudder into the boom, ensure it is perpendicular to the wing, and glue with thin CA.
4. Find the center of the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer (this is the side with the wider hingeline). Mark the tail mount location, then cut and remove the skin in that area. Glue the mount onto the tail with thin CA, making sure it is straight (front to back) and perpendicular to the surface.
Note: If it is not perpendicular, simply use a sanding block to lightly sand the mount until it is correct.
5. Mark the location of where the mount and boom will be bonded, and sand the boom as in previous steps. Clean thoroughly, and bond with thin CA. Use some small fixtures or books to help ensure the square-ness of the surfaces.
6. Wrap with a piece of light fiberglass cloth, bond using thin CA.
7. On the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer, draw a line on the elevator on the throwing blade's side. Cut with a sharp knife, and widen with a small file until it fits the control horn snugly. Make sure the control horn's hole is directly perpendicular to the hinge line. Sand and clean the control horn where it will be bonded, and glue with thin CA.
8. On the rudder, draw a line for the control horn on directly on center with the boom, and on the side opposite to the throwing blade. Make sure the control horn's hole is directly perpendicular to the hinge line. Sand and clean the control horn where it will be bonded, and glue with thin CA.
9. Make two tail springs with the spring wire included in the kit. The wire is a |_____| shape, with the middle section approximately 40 mm long. Each leg should be 10-15 mm long.
10. Fold the tail 180 degrees along the hinge. Insert the spring along the hingeline. Take care to insert the leg close to the control horn on the moving control surface. Wick in superthin CA to strengthen the wood around the legs, and to glue the legs in place. Do this for both tails.
Note: Make sure the center torsion section is not glued to the hinge. If it is glued, use a small knife to lightly pry the torsion section loose.
Servo to Flaperons
1. Measure where the wing pushrods will exit the fuselage using the dimensions in the below image.
2. Cut the slot using a Dremel tool, make smooth with a small file. Assemble the wing pushrods, fix the outer tube to the inner rod with a drop of superthin CA on each end, then bend one side. Install the wing, slide the pushrod through the slot, and hook it onto the wing control horn. Align the pushrod to the servo arm hole, and sand the slot with a file accordingly for minor adjustments, making sure the pushrod moves with as little friction as possible.
Note: Tape the flaperons to the root with masking tape prior to testing for best results.
3. Using a fine felt tip marker, place the pushrod against the servo arm and mark directly above where the hole is located on the servo arm (make sure servos are on). Take the pushrod out, and hold onto the pushrod with a pair of pliers approximately 1 mm from the mark, and bend. Make sure both pushrods are bent using the same method. Cut the length of the bend so it does not interfere with the servos during deflection (the amount depends on your servo and servo arm used).
Note: In the photo I do not have a keeper wire for the pushrod, because the walls will not allow the pushrod to come loose.
Servo to Tails
1. With a dremel cutting disc, cut a slot in the boom for the pull-string to exit the fuselage and hook on to the elevator control horn. The slot should be approximately 10mm long, located on the side with the control horn, by the horizontal tail mount. Wick in superthin CA to reinforce the open fibers around the opening, sand smooth with a fine file.
2. Thread one of the wires down the fuselage through the opening you made in step 1. above until it comes out through the pod opening.
3. On the rear end by the elevator, slip a crimp on to the wire. Thread the wire through the elevator control horn hole, and through the crimp again. Make sure the crimp is close to the elevator horn, but not so close that it limits movement. Crimp down hard on the metal tube with a pair of pliers, lock it down with a drop of superthin CA.
4. With the battery plugged into the receiver and servos, slip a crimp on to the wire on the nose side, thread it through your elevator servo, and through the crimp again. Pull tight, so that your elevator is as close to neutral as possible, and crimp down hard with a pair of pliers. Lock it down with a drop of superthin CA.
Note: It is recommended to err on the side of a little down elevator. As long as it is a reasonable amount (say, less than 2 or 3 mm), you can trim it with your radio subtrim settings. On the plus side, you will have more down elevator deflection available for pushover at the apex of the launch!
5. Trim the wires both front and back, so you do not have too much excess wire hanging loose.
6. Thread the second wire through the end of the boom on the side of the rudder control horn. String and connect as above.
The recommended CG of the GO is 65-70 mm. We are mainly flying with 68 mm. It is best to start from the front of the CG range, and move backwards, as it is more stable with a forward CG.
Camber settings measured from the root of the flaperons against the root tab:
- Launch Preset: Flush
- Speed: 1 mm up
- Cruise: 1 mm down
- Float: 3 mm down
Make sure you check all the deflection directions before your first flight, have a fully charged cell, good luck, and HAVE FUN!