*Photos to be updated*
Parts and Materials List
- ArmSoar 3D launch blade *1
- Wing control horns *2
- Rudder control horn *1
- Stabiliser control horn *1
- Wire for springs *2
- Wire for pull-string *1 length
- Crimps for pull-string *4
- Wing pushrod sleeves *2
- Wing metal pushrods *2
- Wing bolts *2
- Tail bolts *2
- Ballast clip *1
Equipment needed to complete the BAMF 2 assembly:
- 1S LiPo battery pack, approximately 400 mAh capacity. I am using the Giant Power 380 mAh 1S LiPo pack, dimensions are 37.5*19.5*7.5 mm.
- Small full range receiver with end pins, dual antennas highly recommended. The following have been tested to fit: FrSky G-RX6, FrSky X4R, Graupner GR16L, Spektrum AR410, Futaba 3004SB, Jeti R4L, Jeti R5L.
- 4* KST X08N v5.0 servos (no tabs).
Supplies and equipment needed to assemble the BAMF 2:
- Model knife (X-acto #11, etc),
- Masking tape
- Small file (flat and round)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Superthin CA
- Medium CA
- Using a piece of masking tape, mask the root of the bottom of the flaperon right up against the edge of the flaperon and hingeline as pictured. Mark the position of the control horn as follows: 1mm from the edge of the flaperon, 1mm from the hingeline.
- Cut the slot for the control horn using a sharp knife and use a file to widen the slot to make sure the control horns fit in tight and snug. Roughen the surface of the control horn by scoring with a knife then clean the surface with rubbing alcohol to rid it of dust and grease. Slip the control horns into the slot, and make sure the control horns are parallel to each other going straight up and down (not normal to the wing surface). Glue with superthin CA, let cure, and make a small fillet with medium CA.
- Print out the PDF blade installation template (make sure you don’t scale to fit, must print at 100% scale). Cut out the template, align to wing tip and tape down.
- Drill through the wing and hardpoint per the template and make sure the hole is nice and snug with the blade. Rough up the centre of the blade and clean with rubbing alcohol. Install the blade into the wingtip, double check to make sure alignment is to your preference, and glue with superthin CA. Glue by wicking in superthin CA into the joint from the top, let cure, and repeat from the bottom. Allow each layer to cure before adding the next drops. Build up a small fillet using medium CA.
*Optional, if you feel CA is too brittle, you can substitute the medium CA with epoxy for the fillet.
- Apply a piece of masking tape to the elevator as shown, and mark out the center line, in line with the bolt holes. Mark out the location for the control horn slot. Repeat for the rudder.
- Cut the slot for the control horn on both tails and remove the foam within the slot. Be careful to not cut through the opposite carbon skin.
- Roughen the tail control horns, and clean thoroughly to remove dust and grease. Insert the slotted control horn into the elevator slot and insert the other control horn into the rudder slot. Glue the rudder control horn with superthin CA, let cure, and create a small fillet with medium CA. Do not glue the elevator horn yet.
- Install the stabilizer on to the fuselage. Make sure the control horn lines up perfectly with the elevator pylon, and glue with superthin CA. Allow to cure, and create a small fillet with medium CA.
- Bend the two springs as shown.
- Bend the stabilizer 180 degrees around the hinge. Poke two holes into the stabilizer pre-faced hinge to insert the spring and insert spring to make sure it fits properly. Remove the spring and dip each leg into white Gorilla Glue, then reinsert into the tail. Repeat for rudder.
Note, the hole for the control surface side should be as close to the control horn as possible, so the spring forces can be transferred to the control horn and wire directly, preventing twist from developing on the thin surfaces.
Note 2, the white Gorilla Glue expands and foams up as it cures. This helps the concentrated load from the thin spring wire spread to a larger surface so it doesn’t rip through the core material and potentially poke out the skins.
- Mount the wing and tails to the fuselage.
- Arrange your battery, receiver and servos in the nose with tape. Put on the nosecone and check the CG. Redo this step until you get the model to balance at your desired CG without additional nose weight. Mark carefully where your servos are to be installed.
- Remove gear. Rough up the servo cases and wipe clean with rubbing alcohol. Glue the servos to the fuselage using medium CA.
Note, make sure the servos with the arms are in line with where the pushrods will be installed so the pushrods will be as straight as possible.
- Plug in the aileron servos (either the front two or rear two, depending on your preference) to a servo tester and set it to the center position. Put on the cross shaped control horn and choose from one of the two larger legs. Choose the leg that gives a more perpendicular position relative to the fuselage. Cut the rest of the legs.
- Drill a thin slot on the back of the elevator pylon, this is for the elevator control horn and wire to go through. Make the slot thin and shorter, extend later as required to pass the horn though with the stabilizer mounted. This will allow you to have a cleaner opening, without removing too much material.
- Tape the front and rear fairing on the fuselage for the QuikLink pushrods, and mark out the edges of the fairing. Mark down where the openings for the pushrods are to be cut.
- Cut the holes for the pushrod using a Dremel. Start small and expand as needed to prevent removing too much material.
- Feed in the white plastic tube through the front and rear holes and ensure it is straight. Do NOT glue anything yet. Put in the pushrod material and make sure it’s straight and aligned to both the servo arm and wing control horn. Double check to ensure the tube is straight and there is minimal friction when sliding your pushrod through the tube. Adjust holes as necessary and repeat until satisfied.
Note, if it’s not straight or there is friction when moving the pushrod through the tube, it will cause double-centering of the control surfaces.
- Once you are completely satisfied, put a drop of superthin CA at the rear opening and front opening to glue the tube tightly to the fuselage.
Optional, for strong launchers, you can also add a small piece of balsa or foam through the top fuselage opening to give additional support to the tube. Again, please ensure the tube is friction-free and straight by moving the pushrod back and forth before gluing the additional support.
- Bend the wing pushrod rear ends to form an L-bend. This end hooks to the wing control horns. Hook both pushrods to the wings and screw the wing onto the fuselage.
- Plug the wing servos back into the servo tester and return servos to their center positions.
- Make a small piece of balsa for offsetting the flaperons to their maximum UP deflection. Make your block 20mm wide by 15mm tall, this will give you a maximum 15mm up aileron deflection in the installation. This allows the rest of the travel to be used for braking, using 100% of the servo's potential.
- Set the left wing servo to max up travel, mark hole location on the pushrod. Repeat for the right wing servo/pushrod.
- Return the servos to their center position. Use a small set of pliers to bend the pushrod at your marked positions, and cut the excess. Hook up the pushrods to the servos.
Tip, to ensure both flaperons are symmetrical, place the marked line on the pushrod right to the edge of your pliers. Repeat for second pushrod.
- Add a drop of superthin CA as shown. Once cured, add a drop of medium CA, and allow to cure. This creates a bearing and keeper for the pushrod, eliminating any potential slop, and keeping the pushrod from popping off.
- Drill two small holes in the front fairing for the tail wires to pass through.
- Take the wire material, and cut it into two equal lengths. One will be for the elevator and one will be for the rudder. Take one piece, and thread one crimping tube as shown. The left over length is for you to fish out the wire in case the loop goes into the fuselage when the stabilizer is not installed. Crimp the tube hard using a pair of pliers, and reinforce it with a drop of superthin CA.
- Thread the line into the fuselage from the elevator pylon. Hook the elevator control horn into the wire loop, and bolt stab to fuselage.
The tail servos in this manual are connected to the wires via an optional ArmSoar Pulley (available HERE). If you are using a regular servo arm, the same installation technique can be used with the wire wrapping around the screw for an adjustable installation, or by using the supplied crimps for a non-adjustable installation).
- Thread the wire through the pulley (or servo arm) as shown, pull the wire and wrap it around the screw 3 times. Ensure servos are powered and the elevator servo at max travel of elevator UP deflection (note the stab is bottom mounted). Start to tighten the screws. You can adjust the wire length to make sure the elevator is deflected perfectly, with it just touching the boom. Once the servos are centered, the elevator should be in a slightly down position. Similar to the wing installation, this allows you to use 100% of the servo travel and gives you lots of push-down travel at the top of launch. Trim wire length, and glue with a drop of medium CA as shown.
- Sand the boom and clean off all dust and grease.
Optional, this assumes a glued-on vertical tail. If you are installing the fin as a removable fin, skip steps 20 and 21.
- Insert vertical into boom, making sure the rudder control horn is on the side facing away from the throwing blade. Once you ensure it is at the correct angle, glue with superthin CA. Allow it to wick into the joint and cure.
- Drill a small hole as shown. This is for the wire to pass through.
- Thread the wire into the fuselage. Then, put on a crimping tube, pass it through the rudder control horn hole, and back through the crimping tube. Crimp and glue like the elevator wire loop.
- Install the wire to the pulley/servo arm just like for the elevator, with the exception that the servo should be centered, and the rudder should be installed centered.
These are our latest settings and will be updated as we find better settings. Please treat it as a starting guide.
- Super calm conditions: 69mm
- Regular conditions: 67mm
- Very windy and turbulent conditions: 64.5mm
- Preset: 0mm (flush)
- Zoom: 2mm up
- Speed: 0mm (flush)
- Cruise: 3mm down
- Thermal 1: 6mm down
- Thermal 2: 8mm down
Aileron deflection (measured from root tab):
- Speed: 6mm up, 8mm down
- Cruise: 6mm up, 13mm down
- Thermal 1: 5mm up, 18mm down
- Thermal 2: TBD
- Speed: 6mm up, 8mm down
- Cruise: 10mm up, 10mm down
- Thermal 1: 11mm up, 11mm down
- Thermal 2: 11mm up, 11mm down
- 10mm each way
Snap flaps (Elevator to camber mixing):
- 1.5mm with full elevator deflection
Aileron to rudder mixing:
- 5mm rudder with full aileron deflection